Greenland Expedition XVII

Uummannaq Avannarleqmoot!

Jason E. Box

6 – 26 July, 2008

 


An Uummannaq district iceberg.



Uummannaq Island seen from the east in the evening.

 

10 July

Tupilaq figurines in the window of Ann Andreasen and Ole-Jurgen Hammeken's home.

 

A few of the many Ulus decorate the walls of  Ann Andreasen and Ole-Jurgen Hammeken's home.

 


Ann Andreasen and Ole-Jurgen Hammeken's home, visible from a boat, the blue house with white deck fence at top-center of the frame.

 

Uummannaq's next generation of sled dogs.

 

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A 70 deg. N goalie.

 

The women of Uummannaq vs. those of Upernavik. Uummannaq won 3 -1.

 


Lene Holm, an ethnographer studying huntersÕ knowledge of climate change was also a guest at Ann and Ole-JurgenÕs home.

 

12 July

 

...departing Uummannaq Island into foggy waters

 



our skipper, Pavier

Ian Howat and Slawek Tulaczyk with water temperature, salinity, and turbidity profiling instrument measuring to depths up to 880 m


The fog began to clear as we went eastward toward Store Gletscher.

 

Each iceberg deserved a photo.

 

The large tabular icebergs (ilulia manitsoq) that have yet to break up and turn over into smaller pieces are considered the most dangerous.


 

Gulls trailed the boat and squabbled to be in optimal food position. But we were only fishing for data!

 

We boated into the fjord just north of Store Gletscher and had this view of the steep Lille Gletscher (little glacier).

 

At the mouth of Lille Gletscher fjord Slawek got almost a full meter of glacial silt.


 

 

Jakob the deck mate


Dramatic headlands surround


 

...more iceberg scenes...

 

...and more...


 

The light on our return to Uummannaq island inspired more photos.

 

Uummannaq island (1.2 km tall), towering like a fortress over the sea of relatively puny icebergs.


14 July


Uummannaq harbour viewed from the air as our helicopter charter took off.


We flew the length of Uummannaq fjord, the same we had boated the previous day.

 

Here visible is the island we visited the previous day to gather the seismometer and reset the tidal gauge.

 

 

This iceberg we came to know well having seen it earlier in a satellite image and having watched it drift slowly westward since May.

 

One of our 5 sentinel cameras on Store Glacier is here visible to the right of the stone pile.

 

At last, flying (eastward) over Store Gletscher, on our way to attempt recovery of IanÕs on-ice GPS and my climate station.

 

18 July



The view of the small peninsula we landed at in Rink fjord, as we began our ascent to the topographic saddle where we camped.

 


The view of Umiamiko fjord after we had hiked over to it from Rink fjord.



Umiamiko Isbrae 19 July, 2008 seen from the south side at 750 m above the sea.

 

19 July

 


Jason Box along the hike to one of the Umiamiko time lapse cameras. Photo: T. Ballinger.

 

22 July

 


The view of the northern part of Upernavik Island to the south ~5 km south of Nuugaatsiaq.



Jaakuaraq (Jakob), without whos expertise, we would likely not have had success.

 

there, a 'small' tidewater mountain glacier!

 

Upernavik island on the left, Ukuliariseq peninisula on the right, heading east into calmer waters than out in Iglordsuit Sound.
 

An early season (21 July, 20087) snow had capped the high peaks.

 


A 1700 m horn rises from the southeastern shore of Upernavik Island.                             

 


The scenery among the fjords inspired perpetual awe.

 

24 July

 

Ilulissat icebergs with the fabled Greenlandic Giant Gull (Gull-Gigantus-Groenlandica) attacking the tourist boat.

 

A grounded Ilulissat iceberg grounded, with tidal line visible.

 

Yet another enornmous iceberg grounded at the mouth of the Ilulissat icefjord.

 

26 July

Awoke 5:50 AM for 6:15 walk to breakfast with Mark Fahnestock, Joe McConnell, and many other scientists departing Greenland 8:15am with the Air National Guard.