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Research
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The nearshore processes group at the Ohio State University is focused on improving
our understanding of fluid-sediment interactions on natural beaches by combining field
measurements of waves, currents and sea bed morphology with a variety of models.
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Nearshore Circulation
Video-based observations of surface currents are used to examine the behaviour
and variability of nearshore circulation and rip currents. This work is funded
by the Office of Naval Research.
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Large-Scale Sand Bar Morphology
Aerial observations of snad bar morphology over 100-200 km alongshore
distances are used to improve our understanding of large scale coastal
behaviour. This work is funded by the US Geological Survey and the
California Department of Boating and Waterways.
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Nearshore Bathymetry
A GPS-based hydrographic survey system mounted on a waverunner is used
to observe changes in nearshore bathymetry along the Lake Erie shoreline.
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CFD Wave Modelling
A commercial CFD model (Flow-3D, Flow Science, Inc.) is used to examine
the dynamics of wave breaking over natural bathymetry at prototype scales.
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